Michinoku Coastal Trail - Ichinowatari Station to Jodogahama Beach - Iwate, Japan
I took the train back to Ichinowatari, where I left off yesterday. The first bit of walking was along quiet countryside roads before reconnecting with the trail at the Tsunami Memorial Park Nakanohama. There were remnants of tsunami-damaged buildings and several information displays about the area. The washroom here was closed for the winter due to possible frozen pipes, but fortunately, an outhouse was available.
From the park, I followed the road uphill to rejoin the trail not far away. The first stretch wasn’t well maintained and was covered in fallen leaves, but I soon came across a small, newly built shrine tucked among the trees. As I climbed higher, the ocean came into view—and I was completely captivated by its turquoise colour stretching endlessly across the horizon.
The trail eventually led past a resort and campground, where the paths were better maintained and clearly marked. Smaller loops branched off for guests staying there, offering incredible cliffside views of the ocean. One notable viewpoint, the Jodogahama Observatory, offered sweeping views across the bay—you can even see Jodogahama Beach about ten kilometres south, my goal for the day.
Another highlight I was looking forward to was the Sakiyama Blowhole. It only erupts during high tide, so with the tide being low, I didn’t get to see it in action. After a short break at a nearby observatory—a popular spot for birdwatching—I continued on.
The final stretch had me descending to the water and climbing back up repeatedly—a milder version of the Kitayamazaki Cape hike I did earlier. I thought about stopping a few times, but the views kept me going. With the turquoise ocean as my backdrop, I finally arrived at Jodogahama Beach. Its name means “Pure Land Beach,” and true to that, the water was crystal clear and serene. In warmer months, this area offers boat tours and various water activities, though most were closed for the winter. I had planned to visit the visitor centre, but it was shut for the holidays.
I considered walking back to town since it wasn’t too far, but the bus schedule lined up perfectly. I caught the bus back and called it a day.
History & Background
This section of the Michinoku Coastal Trail runs through Miyako City and ends at Jodogahama Beach, one of Iwate’s most iconic coastal destinations. The area is part of the Sanriku Fukko (Reconstruction) National Park, known for its striking white rocks, pine-covered cliffs, and turquoise waters formed by ancient volcanic activity.
Jodogahama’s name—meaning “Pure Land Beach”—was given by a 17th-century Buddhist priest who compared its serene scenery to paradise. The surrounding coast was heavily impacted by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami, and the trail’s reconstruction through this region now stands as a symbol of resilience and renewal along Japan’s northeastern shores.
Getting There
You can reach Ichinowatari Station from Miyako in just ten minutes on the Sanriku Tetsudo Rias Line—a short and scenic ride along the coast.
Route Overview
Distance: 14.56 km (Ichinowatari Station → Jodogahama Beach)
Total elevation gain: 781 m
Duration: 3 hr 41 min (with breaks 3 hr 50 min)
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost Breakdown
Train: Miyako Station → Ichinowatari Station — ¥310
Bus: Jodogahama → Miyako Station — ¥250
