Camino Portugués Coastal - Day 8: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
My main goal today was to reach Caldas de Reis before the forecasted rain arrived around 1 PM. Based on my usual pace, I set off from Pontevedra at 7:45 AM, the early morning streets still quiet and cool. Almost immediately, I encountered a detour due to construction. Fortunately, the temporary signs were clear, and a few helpful locals pointed me in the right direction—small gestures that make the Camino feel so welcoming.
The route offered a lovely mix of landscapes. I passed through dappled forests where birdsong accompanied my steps, crossed railway tracks echoing with distant train whistles, and walked through sunlit vineyards displaying the last of the season’s harvest. The gentle hills and varied terrain kept the pace engaging without feeling overwhelming, though the looming threat of rain kept me moving steadily.
I arrived in Caldas de Reis a bit early for check-in, which gave me the perfect opportunity to explore. I wandered through the small town, visiting the church and stopping at a supermarket to pick up a few snacks. To my surprise, I discovered a tiny Asian market tucked away on a side street, stocked with a variety of instant noodles and ingredients. I grabbed a bowl along with a fresh salad—an unexpected but welcome treat that fueled me before settling in.
Just after I checked into my albergue, the skies opened, releasing the heavy rain that had been threatening all morning. I felt a wave of relief and gratitude—I had made it without getting soaked! The sound of raindrops against the roof, combined with the quiet of the albergue, made for a restful afternoon. I spent the rest of the day relaxing, stretching, and watching the storm pass, feeling content with another successful stage of the Camino.
History & Background
This stage connects Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis, following a path that meanders through Galicia’s lush forests, vineyards, and small villages. Caldas de Reis is historically significant for its thermal springs—the name “Caldas” itself refers to hot springs or thermal waters, which have drawn visitors since Roman times. Pilgrims and travellers historically stopped here to rest and recuperate, taking advantage of the mineral-rich waters believed to have healing properties.
Over time, Caldas de Reis grew into a modest town with religious and commercial significance, serving as a waypoint along the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The combination of natural beauty, thermal baths, and historic architecture makes it a popular rest stop for modern pilgrims, offering both relaxation and a taste of traditional Galician culture.
Getting There
The walk from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis covers approximately 22–23 kilometres. Terrain includes paved roads, forest tracks, and vineyard paths, with moderate elevation gain. Pilgrims can shorten the stage by taking local buses or trains, which connect the two towns via regular service.
Caldas de Reis is accessible by regional train and bus networks, making it easy to reach from Pontevedra, Santiago de Compostela, or other points along the Camino Portugués Coastal route.
Route Overview
Distance: 22.84 km (Dpaso, Urban Hotel → Albergue Agarimo)
Total elevation gain: 277 m
Duration: 4 hr 8 min (with breaks 4 hr 52 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Portugués Coastal route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Agarimo (Reserved via Agoda) — €23
Food: €20.48
