Camino Francés - Day 9: Logroño to Nájera
Today marked my earliest start yet—I left the albergue before 6 a.m. With nearly 29 kilometres ahead and no accommodation booked, I wanted to make sure I’d arrive early enough to find a bed. Ricky, Jonathan, and I set off together through the quiet streets of Logroño, our headlamps cutting through the darkness.
We stopped a few times for photos as we left the city, watching the lights fade behind us. The temperature dropped sharply, and we all pulled on our jackets. Soon, we reached the lakeside path at Pantano de la Grajera, just as the first hints of sunrise appeared. The sky turned from indigo to soft orange, and for a few minutes, the entire world seemed to glow. Moments like that make the early starts worth it.
The route continued through Navarrete, a charming village known for its pottery and striking hilltop church. Just before town, we passed the iconic Toro de Osborne, the massive black bull cutout that stands as a famous roadside symbol across Spain. With its silhouette set against the morning light, it felt like a marker of progress—a sign that we were truly deep into the Camino now.
The path after Navarrete was long and exposed, stretching endlessly toward Nájera. Walking with others made the distance feel lighter, and we took turns chatting, laughing, and falling into comfortable silence. Around 1 p.m., we reached the municipal albergue in Nájera and found a long line already forming. With only 48 beds available, I anxiously counted the backpacks ahead of me—33rd! Relief washed over me when I realized I’d made it in.
Check-in began at 2 p.m., and I later heard that many pilgrims behind us were turned away, as the town’s other accommodations were full due to a local festival. I felt incredibly lucky to have secured a spot and grateful for the company along the way. It had been a long day, but one filled with great companionship, open skies, and small victories that reminded me why I loved the Camino.
History & Background
This stage from Logroño to Nájera leads pilgrims deeper into La Rioja, one of Spain’s most picturesque wine regions. The trail meanders through vineyards, farmland, and ancient towns that have welcomed travellers for centuries.
Navarrete, once an important medieval pottery centre, still displays remnants of its heritage in the traditional workshops and kilns that line its narrow streets. Its church, Iglesia de la Asunción, is renowned for its ornate Baroque altarpiece, a testament to the region’s artistic and religious history.
Nájera, the stage’s endpoint, holds a special place in Camino lore. Founded in the 10th century, it was once the capital of the Kingdom of Nájera-Pamplona. The town’s name is believed to derive from the Arabic “Naxara,” meaning “place between rocks,” referring to its dramatic red cliffs. The Monastery of Santa María la Real, built by King García Sánchez III, remains one of the most significant pilgrimage landmarks, housing royal tombs and centuries of Camino history within its walls.
Getting There
The route from Logroño to Nájera covers approximately 29 km along the Camino Francés, passing city streets, vineyard trails, and open countryside. The terrain includes moderate elevation changes and is long but not technically difficult. Shade can be limited in the afternoon, so an early departure is recommended.
Walking is the traditional and most rewarding way to experience this stage, allowing pilgrims to enjoy the transition from urban bustle to the wide-open Rioja vineyards under the expansive sky. For those needing an alternative, regional buses connect Logroño and Nájera, offering flexibility while still reaching the next stop along the Camino.
Route Overview
Distance: 28.83 km (Albergue Santiago Apóstol → Albergue Municipal Nájera)
Total elevation gain: 427 m
Duration: 5 hr 49 min (with breaks 7 hr 1 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Municipal Peregrinos de Nájera (lined up) — €6
Food: €32.89
