Camino Francés - Day 31: Palas de Rei to Arzúa
After several rainy days, my shoes hadn’t dried overnight, but with more rain forecast, it didn’t matter. Today, however, brought excitement: we’d be passing through Melide, famous for its octopus (pulpo). As we arrived, the first restaurant we saw had giant pots boiling octopus, and the chef welcomed us with a small sample and even let us take photos. It seemed only right to enjoy a proper meal there. Being a Sunday, the streets were lively with a local market selling everything from cheese and vegetables to, surprisingly, pig heads — a fascinating glimpse into Galician culture.
The trail continued wet but manageable as we made our way toward Arzúa. We arrived around 2 p.m. in pouring rain, relieved to find available beds at the municipal albergue. After hanging up our wet gear and drying what we could, we tried heading to the supermarket, only to realize it was Sunday and closed. Luckily, a nearby restaurant was still open long enough for us to grab some food before settling in for the evening. Despite the weather, the day had a satisfying rhythm — good food, bustling towns, and the camaraderie of fellow pilgrims.
History & Background
This stage from Palas de Rei to Arzúa traverses the heart of Galicia’s rural landscape, featuring rolling hills, forests, and small villages. Melide is a historic market town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a strong culinary tradition — most famously pulpo a la gallega, a dish that has delighted pilgrims for centuries.
Arzúa, on the other hand, is known as the “gateway to Santiago” for the final 40 km of the Camino Francés. Its municipal albergue and services cater to pilgrims who have completed most of the journey and are preparing for the last stretch. Historically, Arzúa was a crossroads of trade routes, which explains its long-standing reputation for hospitality and well-stocked marketplaces.
Getting There
From Palas de Rei, the Camino Francés continues westward along well-marked paths that pass through forests, farmland, and small hamlets before reaching Melide. Pilgrims can explore local markets, enjoy Galician cuisine, and continue along minor roads and trails toward Arzúa.
For those joining this stage by transport, Arzúa is accessible by bus or taxi from Melide, Santiago de Compostela, or Lugo, with connections to larger Spanish cities like Madrid. The well-serviced route ensures that pilgrims can plan flexible stages while still following the traditional Camino path.
Route Overview
Distance: 30 km (Albergue Zendoira → Albergue de Municipal de Arzúa)
Total elevation gain: 576 m
Duration: 6 hr 3 min (with breaks 7 hr 41 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue de Municipal de Arzúa (Walked in) — €10
Food: €24.33
