Camino Francés - Day 30: A Pena to Palas de Rei
The Camino felt noticeably busier today — the trail was buzzing with pilgrims, and at times it was tricky to pass through the crowd. Fortunately, there were a few alternative paths we could take to avoid congestion, which made the walk more pleasant. Our first stop was an open café, and the line stretched out the door. Luckily, we managed to grab a table, and the service was quick, allowing us to refuel before continuing.
After breakfast, rain began to fall, making some of the rocky descents slippery and requiring extra care with each step. Despite the weather, we made steady progress and reached Palas de Rei around 2:20 p.m. Our original plan was to stay at the municipal albergue, but it was already full. After consulting the albergue list and making a few phone calls, we finally secured beds on our third attempt. Our albergue was about 1.5 km further along the path, but we were just relieved to have a place to rest.
One highlight of Palas de Rei for me was getting my first Camino wax stamp. After showering and changing into dry clothes, we visited the shop where the stamps were applied. Watching the stamp pressed into my credential felt like a small but exciting ritual — a tangible reminder of each day’s progress on this long pilgrimage.
History & Background
Palas de Rei is a historic town along the Camino Francés with roots dating back to the medieval period. Its name means “Palace of the King,” referencing its status as a stopover for royalty and pilgrims in the Middle Ages. The town is known for its stone churches, traditional Galician architecture, and numerous small bridges that cross the local streams and rivers.
Pilgrims passing through Palas de Rei are reminded of the Camino’s rich history and the centuries of travellers who have walked these same streets. The town also serves as a gateway to the Galician countryside, offering both cultural sites and scenic forested stretches on the path toward Melide and Arzúa.
Getting There
The route from A Pena to Palas de Rei continues along the main Camino Francés, mostly through rural landscapes interspersed with small towns and villages. The path is well-marked, though the high number of pilgrims near the 100 km mark requires careful navigation, especially on narrow sections and in towns.
For those arriving independently, Palas de Rei is accessible by bus or taxi from nearby Melide or Arzúa, with connections to larger hubs like Santiago de Compostela or Lugo. Pilgrims often combine walking with these transport options when planning shorter stages or rest days.
Route Overview
Distance: 33.32 km (Km 100 Casa do Rego → Albergue Zendoira)
Total elevation gain: 650 m
Duration: 6 hr 37 min (with breaks 8 hr 13 min)
Difficulty: Challenging
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Zendoira (Reserved via phone) — €15
Food: €22.3
