Camino Francés - Day 20: Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas
Today’s walk presented one of the tougher mental challenges so far. The scenery barely changed for kilometres, and much of the trail ran parallel to the road, with the occasional car speeding past. A grey sky hung overhead, and a steady drizzle fell most of the day. My rain jacket kept the water out, but the humidity underneath made it feel like walking in a sauna. By the time I reached the albergue, I was soaked through and ready to collapse on the nearest bed. They don’t call this section the Meseta — the endless plateau — for nothing.
Despite the monotony and dreary weather, there were small moments to appreciate. The flat terrain allowed me to settle into a rhythm, giving space for reflection on the journey so far. Occasionally, other pilgrims passed by, exchanging nods and “Buen Camino” greetings. Even brief interactions like these lift your spirits and remind you that you’re part of a larger community walking the same path.
Arriving at the Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal in Mansilla de las Mulas brought immense relief. We had to wait outside as the previous group checked in, but it didn’t matter — simply being done felt like a small victory. Sliding off my wet shoes and into flip-flops was pure bliss. I spent a few quiet minutes stretching and watching the rain ease, savoring the calm after the long, monotonous walk.
History & Background
Mansilla de las Mulas is a small town in León with a rich history as a rest stop on the Camino Francés. Historically, it was a hub for trade and mule trading — hence the name “Mulas,” meaning mules. The town retains its traditional charm, with stone buildings, a parish church, and small squares where pilgrims can pause before continuing across the vast Meseta plains. Walking through this area, it’s easy to imagine the centuries of travellers who have crossed these same flat, expansive fields.
Getting There
From Bercianos del Real Camino, the Camino Francés continues westward across the Meseta, the vast, flat plateau that stretches through the province of León. The route is mostly flat, passing fields, farm tracks, and small villages, with long stretches between services, so pilgrims are advised to carry water, snacks, and rain gear. Walking is the traditional and recommended way to experience the Meseta, allowing time for reflection and to fully appreciate the quiet, open landscape.
For those who need a shorter stage, buses and taxis can connect Bercianos del Real Camino with Mansilla de las Mulas, providing flexibility while still allowing pilgrims to continue along the Camino. The trail is well-marked with yellow arrows, making navigation straightforward, though the monotony and exposure of the plateau demand patience and mental endurance.
Route Overview
Distance: 26.37 km (Albergue Parroquial Casa Rectoral → Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal)
Total elevation gain: 86 m
Duration: 4 hr 53 min (with breaks 6 hr 25 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal (Walked in) — €7
Food: €31.44
