Camino Francés - Day 19: Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino
My Camino family and I discussed our options for today’s stage: Bercianos del Real Camino or Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. Accommodation availability was a major factor—word was that a large group was heading to Calzadilla, and with limited spots there, we decided on Bercianos instead. With the plan set, we packed up and set off.
The route was mostly flat, making for an easy rhythm, but today carried special significance: we would pass through Sahagún, the official halfway point of our Camino Francés journey. It felt surreal to reach this milestone! In Sahagún, we visited the Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina and collected our halfway certificate for €3, which also included a brief tour of the historic site. It was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on everything we’d accomplished so far.
As we continued toward Bercianos in light drizzle, we came across a struggling pilgrim about 3 km from town. Her knee was giving her trouble, and she seemed discouraged, with no benches or fellow pilgrims in sight. We stopped, offered encouragement, and invited her to join us. Walking with her to her albergue and ensuring she was okay reminded me again why people call the Camino magical—help is always nearby when you need it.
By the time we reached Albergue Parroquial Casa Rectoral, the rain had eased. The albergue’s lawn was perfect for a little stretch before settling in. Despite the damp weather, today felt amazing—a milestone reached, a new friend helped, and another stage completed with camaraderie and reflection.
History & Background
Bercianos del Real Camino is a small village in León, historically linked to the Camino Francés as a resting point for pilgrims traversing the wide Meseta plains. Its Parroquial Casa Rectoral continues the centuries-old tradition of hospitality, offering simple dormitories, shared kitchens, and a welcoming communal environment.
Passing through Sahagún, pilgrims can visit one of the region’s most significant churches, the Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina, which celebrates the Marian devotion that has drawn walkers to this area for hundreds of years.
Getting There
From the previous town, pilgrims walk approximately 24.65 km along the flat Meseta trails toward Bercianos del Real Camino. The route offers minimal shade and long stretches between towns, so carrying enough water, snacks, and sun protection is essential.
Walking is the traditional and most rewarding way to reach Bercianos del Real Camino, allowing time to experience the vast plateau and reflect on the journey. For those seeking an alternative, taxis or regional buses are available. Along the way, pilgrims pass Sahagún, the historic halfway point of the Camino Francés, where it is possible to obtain a halfway certificate — a symbolic milestone for many walkers.
Route Overview
Distance: 24.65 km (Hostel Jacques de Molay → Albergue Parroquial Casa Rectoral)
Total elevation gain: 169 m
Duration: 4 hr 57 min (with breaks 6 hr 53 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Parroquial Casa Rectoral (Donativo) — €15
Food: €2.5
Certificate: Halfway Certificate — €3
