Camino Francés - Day 21: Mansilla de las Mulas to León
The weather didn’t look promising from the start. What began as a light drizzle quickly turned into steady, heavy rain soon after we left Mansilla de las Mulas. My main priority was keeping my pack dry. I didn’t take many photos today—the wet weather made it impractical—but I kept my spirits up by focusing on the rhythm of walking. I started with both my rain jacket and pack cover, but after a short while, the jacket felt stifling. I switched to using my umbrella instead, which helped balance protection from the rain with comfort.
The walk was mostly flat, though the scenery was fairly monotonous. As we neared León, the path cut past highways and industrial areas, a stark contrast to the open fields of the Meseta. Still, seeing the city’s rooftops and cathedral towers appear on the horizon was a huge relief. The rain gradually eased, and my shoes began to dry as I approached town.
I arrived in León a bit ahead of my Camino family. We decided to book an Airbnb for the night, giving ourselves the chance to rest and recover, and to enjoy a rest day tomorrow before continuing the journey. After almost a full day of wet walking, slipping out of damp shoes and into dry socks felt like a small victory.
History & Background
León is a historic city in northwestern Spain, known for its stunning Gothic cathedral, medieval architecture, and rich role on the Camino Francés. The city developed around a Roman military garrison, and later became a key hub for pilgrims travelling from the Meseta toward Santiago de Compostela. León offers numerous albergues, churches, and historic streets, making it a popular stop for both rest and exploration along the Camino.
Getting There
From Mansilla de las Mulas, the Camino Francés continues toward León along roughly 19 km of mostly flat terrain. The route passes through rural lanes, minor roads, and the occasional industrial outskirts before approaching the historic city centre.
Walking is the traditional and preferred way to experience this stage, allowing pilgrims to savour the final stretch of the Meseta plains and reflect on the journey so far. For those needing a shorter stage, buses and taxis connect Mansilla de las Mulas with León, offering flexibility while still arriving at the city ready to explore its historic landmarks.
Route Overview
Distance: 19.33 km (Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal → Air B&B León)
Total elevation gain: 107 m
Duration: 3 hr 45 min (with breaks 4 hr 52 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: León Air B&B (Booked via Air B&B) — €28
Food: €17.3
