Camino Francés - Day 18: Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios
Somehow, none of us set an alarm last night, and we didn’t wake until almost 7 a.m., despite hearing other pilgrims moving about. After a quick breakfast at Albergue Espíritu Santo, we finally set off around 8 a.m. We had been warned that it would be roughly 17 km to the next town, with only a possible food truck around the 10 km mark, so we made sure to carry plenty of snacks and water.
One of our group decided to stay behind to meet a friend leaving the Camino, but planned to catch up later. We said our goodbyes and began walking. Luckily, we did find the food truck and stopped for a short break, stretching our legs and refuelling. My pack and feet felt heavier than usual, so I suggested we split up for a bit so I can walk at my normal pace and another member decided to come along. It worked well—walking faster helped me avoid lingering in the heat, which I find challenging.
As we left Ledigos, we had a delightful 10-minute conversation with a local couple out for a morning stroll. Even with the language barrier, we shared smiles and gestures, a small but memorable encounter on the Camino.
By the time we arrived at Hostel Jacques De Molay, we were ready to relax. We spent a little time on the lawn before dinner in the dining hall, enjoying the simple pleasures of albergue life: a cold drink, shared stories, and a sense of accomplishment at completing another Meseta stage.
History & Background
Terradillos de los Templarios is a small village in the province of Palencia, historically linked to the Knights Templar, who once owned land and provided shelter for pilgrims passing through the region. The town still maintains its medieval charm, with traditional stone houses and a small plaza where pilgrims gather.
The Camino Francés stage from Carrión de los Condes highlights the open landscapes of the Meseta, where wide plains and gentle hills provide both quiet reflection and a sense of solitude. Simple albergues, often donativo or low-cost, continue to welcome pilgrims in the centuries-old spirit of hospitality.
Getting There
From Carrión de los Condes, pilgrims continue west along mostly flat Meseta trails toward Terradillos de los Templarios, covering roughly 27 km. The route passes open farmland and dirt roads, with very little shade, making early departure, sun protection, and plenty of water essential.
Walking is the traditional and most rewarding way to experience this stage, allowing time to enjoy the quiet expanses and reflect on the journey. For those needing an alternative, taxis or regional buses connect Carrión de los Condes with Terradillos de los Templarios, providing flexibility while still arriving ready to continue along the Camino Francés.
Route Overview
Distance: 26.75 km (Albergue Espíritu Santo → Hostel Jacques De Molay)
Total elevation gain: 106 m
Duration: 4 hr 59 min (with breaks 6 hr 36 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Hostel Jacques De Molay (Reserved via WhatsApp) — €12
Food: €26.5
