Camino Francés - Day 16: Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino
We left Hontanas before sunrise, our headlamps cutting through the pre-dawn darkness. The trail out of town was narrow and muddy in places, but we carefully navigated the puddles—some were enormous, with no way around. Luckily, our shoes stayed dry, and spirits remained high as we followed the familiar yellow arrows into the open Meseta.
About 5 km in, we reached the ruins of San Antón, a centuries-old pilgrims’ hospital. Here, we ran into familiar faces from previous stages. They shared stories of dining by candlelight with no electricity and preparing their own meals—an experience that sounded both challenging and magical. I made a mental note: if I walk the Camino again, I’d love to stay here for the full historic experience.
Next, we reached Castrojeriz, a larger town with a few bars and shops. Wanting to avoid a repeat of last night’s scramble for food, we stocked up on instant noodles, fruit, and snacks. Feeling well-prepared, we continued westward—only to discover later that our albergue had no kitchen or kettle. The owner, who also ran the hotel next door, offered a small pot of hot water for €2, but we declined.
While figuring out a plan, we met an elderly local woman who graciously invited us into her kitchen to prepare our meal. After we ate, we offered to clean up, but she simply smiled and said, “No, buen camino.” Moments like these capture the heart of the Camino—the generosity, kindness, and shared humanity that make the journey so memorable.
Arriving at Albergue en El Camino0415, we felt both tired and fulfilled. The day had offered the classic Meseta mix: long stretches of open trail, quiet reflection, and small encounters that stay with you long after you leave the path.
History & Background
Boadilla del Camino is a small village in the province of Burgos, historically significant as a stop on the Camino Francés through the Meseta plateau. The town grew around a small monastery and later became a waypoint for pilgrims journeying westward toward León and Santiago de Compostela.
Nearby, the Ruins of San Antón remind travellers of the medieval pilgrim hospitals that once dotted the Camino, offering shelter, food, and spiritual care to weary walkers. Today, Boadilla del Camino provides simple albergues, bars, and a quiet, authentic Meseta experience.
Getting There
Pilgrims typically walk from Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino along a largely flat Meseta route, with occasional gentle hills. The trail consists mostly of dirt tracks and rural lanes, exposed to the sun with very little shade, so an early departure and plenty of water are recommended.
Walking is the traditional and most rewarding way to experience this stage, allowing pilgrims to soak in the solitude and wide-open landscapes that define the Meseta. For those needing an alternative, regional buses and taxis connect Hontanas with Boadilla del Camino, providing flexibility while still reaching the next stop along the Camino Francés.
Route Overview
Distance: 29.03 km (Albergue Municipal San Juan → Albergue en El Camino0415)
Total elevation gain: 280 m
Duration: 5 hr 46 min (with breaks 7 hr 56 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue en El Camino0415 (Reserved via WhatsApp) — €14
Food: €20.63
