Camino Francés - Day 15: Burgos to Hontanas
We left Burgos just before 7 a.m., the morning air cool and calm. After a restful day yesterday, it felt good to be back on the trail, though we knew today would be a long stage. The terrain was mostly flat, with gentle rises here and there, and the route ran along open dirt roads through farmland. Shade was scarce, so we made sure to start early before the sun grew too strong.
Midway, we stopped at a small, quiet church just outside Rabé de Las Calzadas. A nun came out to greet pilgrims and kindly offered a blessing along with a small necklace. It was a simple, heartfelt gesture that reminded me of the spiritual side of the Camino, and it lifted our spirits for the long stretch ahead.
The final kilometres seemed endless. Hontanas sits lower than the surrounding hills, so it remained out of view for much of the approach. The anticipation made each step feel longer, and we were more than ready when we finally started the descent into town. The sight of the village rooftops and the albergue brought a huge sense of relief and accomplishment.
After checking into Albergue Municipal San Juan, we assumed dinner would be easy, but without a reservation, every restaurant in town was full. Thankfully, locals pointed us to a small bar attached to another albergue. We ended up with a simple but satisfying meal of apples, tortillas, and drinks. After a day like today, it felt like a feast.
History & Background
Hontanas is a small, peaceful village in the province of Burgos, located in the early Meseta plateau region. Its name comes from the Spanish word for “wells,” reflecting the village’s historical reliance on water sources for local agriculture. Hontanas has long been a stop for pilgrims on the Camino Francés, offering modest albergues, small bars, and a quiet atmosphere that contrasts with the busier towns along the route.
The village is also home to the Municipal Church of San Juan, a simple Romanesque church that stands as a reminder of the Camino’s spiritual roots. Pilgrims often find solace here, whether pausing for a blessing or taking a quiet moment before continuing westward.
Getting There
The stage from Burgos to Hontanas covers approximately 32 km across the Meseta plateau. The route is mostly flat with scattered gentle hills, following open dirt tracks and rural roads. Shade is limited, so early departure, sun protection, and plenty of water are strongly recommended.
Walking is the traditional and most rewarding way to experience this stage, allowing pilgrims to enjoy the wide-open landscapes and the meditative rhythm of the trail. For those seeking an alternative, a limited number of buses and taxis connect Burgos with Hontanas, providing flexibility while still reaching the next stop along the Camino Francés.
Route Overview
Distance: 31.83 km (Albergue Casa del Cubo de Burgos → Albergue Municipal San Juan)
Total elevation gain: 268 m
Duration: 6 hr 20 min (with breaks 8 hr 26 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Municipal San Juan (Reserved via WhatsApp) — €12
Food: €27
