Camino Francés - Day 11: Grañón to Tosantos
I left Grañón early in the morning with my Camino family, heading toward Tosantos, another small town known for its donativo albergue and the chapel carved into the cliffside. After several long days on the trail, we were all glad to have a shorter stage ahead.
The morning light was soft and golden as we walked through rolling farmland and quiet villages. Without the rush of a long day, the pace felt more relaxed. We joked around, stopped at playgrounds, petted a few friendly animals along the way, and lingered over coffee breaks. It was one of those easy, joyful Camino days—less about the kilometres and more about the company.
We arrived at the Albergue Parroquial de Tosantos around noon and were greeted by the hospitaleros, who welcomed us warmly. To our surprise, our Italian friend Paolo—whom we hadn’t seen in a day—was already there. These kinds of reunions always felt like small miracles on the Camino.
After checking in, we settled into the sleeping area, which was noticeably chilly compared to the sunny afternoon outside, but thick blankets were provided. Around 5 p.m., a local guide led a small group of us up to visit the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Peña, the chapel built right into the cliffside above the town. The guide shared its fascinating history before unlocking the huge wooden door. Inside, the chapel was beautifully simple yet striking—centuries of faith carved directly into stone.
That evening followed the familiar donativo rhythm: everyone helped cook, set the table, and clean up afterward. During dinner, the town priest joined us, sharing stories and laughter with pilgrims from all over the world. It was one of those evenings that perfectly captured the essence of the Camino—community, simplicity, and gratitude.
History & Background
This stage moves from Grañón to Tosantos, crossing into the region of Castilla y León, where the landscape begins to shift from vineyard-covered hills to wider plains. Along the way, pilgrims pass through small, rural towns like Redecilla del Camino, Castildelgado, and Belorado, each with its own quiet charm and traces of medieval history.
Tosantos, though tiny, is home to one of the Camino’s most memorable sites: the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Peña, a 12th-century hermitage carved into a limestone cliff. For centuries, it served as a place of solitude and devotion for hermits, and today it remains a powerful symbol of spiritual reflection for pilgrims walking the Way. The adjoining Parroquial Albergue continues the long-standing tradition of hospitality, run entirely by volunteers and supported through donations.
Getting There
The route from Grañón to Tosantos covers approximately 21 km along the Camino Francés, following a mix of farm tracks and paved paths with only moderate elevation gain. It is a relatively short and gentle stage compared to previous days.
Walking is the traditional and most rewarding way to experience this stage, offering open countryside views and opportunities to explore small villages while enjoying a more social Camino pace. For those needing an alternative, regional buses and taxis connect nearby towns like Belorado and Santo Domingo de la Calzada, providing flexibility while still reaching the next stop along the Camino.
Route Overview
Distance: 20.75 km (Albergue Parroquial Grañón → Albergue Parroquial Tosantos)
Total elevation gain: 315 m
Duration: 4 hr 4 min (with breaks 4 hr 57 min)
Difficulty: Hard
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Parroquial de Peregrinos Tosantos (Donativo) — €15
Food: €11.80
