Camino Finisterre - Day 2: Negreira to Lago
When I woke up, the sound of wind and rain made it hard to leave the comfort of the albergue. A downgraded hurricane had swept across Galicia overnight, bringing gusty winds and relentless downpours. The forecast suggested the worst would ease by mid-morning, so my two companions and I waited until the 9 a.m. checkout before setting off.
Within minutes of stepping outside, our shoes were soaked. The rain was so heavy that the Camino path had turned into a stream, and we could only be sure we were on the right route thanks to the yellow arrows and shell markers. The first 20 kilometres were a battle against headwinds and sheets of rain, but by the afternoon, the weather began alternating between bursts of sunshine and brief showers.
The trail itself was scenic, weaving through small hamlets, stone bridges, and forested hills typical of rural Galicia. Finding open cafés or shops was difficult—many had closed because of the storm—but we were lucky to find one bakery open. Without it, we’d have made do with just our snacks and water.
By the time we reached Lago, we were drenched but relieved. The albergue owner kindly let us shower, change, and spread out our soaked gear before check-in time. After a long day of walking through wind and rain, the simple warmth of hospitality felt like luxury. Hopefully, tomorrow brings clearer skies.
History & Background
The stage from Negreira to Lago continues westward through quiet Galician countryside, marking the second leg of the Camino Finisterre—the only Camino route that begins in Santiago and ends at the Atlantic. This section follows old trading and pilgrimage paths once used by locals travelling between inland villages and the coast.
Negreira has long been a key resting stop for pilgrims leaving Santiago, known for its medieval Ponte Maceira bridge and the Pazo de Cotón, a fortified manor that once guarded the route. As the Camino ascends through forested hills toward Lago, it passes small farming communities that preserve the rhythms of rural life unchanged for centuries. Though less travelled, this stretch offers an authentic glimpse of Galicia’s rugged landscapes and quiet spirituality—especially when walked in the region’s unpredictable weather.
Getting There
From Negreira, pilgrims continue west along the Camino Finisterre to Lago, a distance of roughly 33 km. The route alternates between forest trails, rural lanes, and small village streets, with gentle but steady elevation changes. Services along the way are limited, so carrying food, water, and rain gear is recommended.
Walking this stage is the traditional and most rewarding option, offering quiet landscapes, natural scenery, and a sense of solitude along the trail. For those needing an alternative, buses connect Santiago de Compostela with Negreira, allowing flexibility for starting the stage without missing the Camino. Accommodation in Lago is modest but comfortable, making it a convenient overnight stop before continuing toward Cee.
Route Overview
Distance: 28.34 km (Albergue San José → Albergue Monte Aro)
Total elevation gain: 651 m
Duration: 5 hr 40 min (with breaks 6 hr 20 min)
Difficulty: Challenging
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Finisterre route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Albergue Monte Aro (Reserved via WhatsApp) — €16
Food: €25.50
