The first day of my Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) started in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, as I couldn't find accommodation in Les Houches. As I boarded the train towards Les Houches to officially begin Day 1 of the trek, I couldn't contain my excitement. After all the planning and preparation, I was finally starting one of Europe's most iconic long-distance hiking routes!
I knew there were options to shorten today's hike by taking the cable car up towards Col de Voza, skipping the initial climb. However, I decided it would be more rewarding to experience the entire route from the official starting point. It also seemed like a good opportunity to warm up my legs and ease myself into the tougher hiking days ahead.
As I slowly made my way uphill through the town of Les Houches, I started seeing more and more hikers heading in the same direction. Eventually, I reached the official Tour du Mont Blanc starting arch, where quite a few people had gathered to take their photos before setting off. Of course, I had to get my own pictures before continuing further up the trail!
The first section of the climb has a reputation for being one of the less exciting parts of the TMB. Much of it follows roads and gravel tracks as you make your way uphill towards Col de Voza. After experiencing it myself, I could understand why some hikers choose to skip this section. There weren't many views to enjoy, and climbing a long gravel hill under the sun certainly wasn't my favourite way to start a hiking day. It also felt considerably hotter than walking through a shaded forest.
The climb required more mental determination than anything else, with approximately 660 metres of elevation gain before reaching the col. It wasn't particularly technical, but the steady uphill made it feel like a bit of a workout. Once I finally reached the top, I took the opportunity to refill my water bottle before heading to a nearby café for a quick lunch break.
This turned out to be a surprisingly enjoyable place to stop. There was a great atmosphere around the area, and I could watch the little mountain train making its way uphill nearby. It was a nice change of pace after the long gravel climb, and I found myself lingering for another 20 minutes beyond what I had originally planned. Sometimes, the unplanned breaks end up being the most enjoyable parts of a hike!
Once I was ready to set off again, the remainder of the day was mostly downhill towards Les Contamines. After the initial climb, I was certainly happy to have a more forgiving section ahead. However, I was still a little concerned about my knee, as I had experienced knee problems earlier in the year. Other than having to stop occasionally to remove small pebbles that had found their way into my shoes, the descent went smoothly. I eventually made it safely into Les Contamines, officially completing the first day of my TMB adventure!
Once I arrived in town, I started looking for my Airbnb accommodation. Unfortunately, following the directions on Google Maps proved a little frustrating, as it couldn't quite pinpoint the exact building. I eventually switched to Apple Maps, which turned out to be much more helpful in locating the place. After getting settled in, I headed to a nearby grocery store to pick up some groceries for dinner and snacks for the following day's hike. It was a fairly straightforward evening, but after a full day on the trail, I was more than happy to rest and recharge.
Overall, it was a great start to the Tour du Mont Blanc. Although the initial climb wasn't the most exciting section of the route, completing the entire stage from Les Houches made the day feel more rewarding. With the first day behind me, I was looking forward to what the next stages would bring!
Background
The Tour du Mont Blanc is one of Europe's most famous long-distance hiking routes, circling the Mont Blanc massif through three countries: France, Italy, and Switzerland. The traditional circuit is approximately 170 kilometres long, with around 10,000 metres of cumulative elevation gain and loss, depending on the chosen variations.
The route passes through alpine villages, mountain valleys, high mountain passes, glaciers, and some of the most spectacular scenery in the Alps. Most hikers complete the circuit over 7–11 days, staying in mountain refuges, guesthouses, hotels, or other accommodations along the way.
Les Houches, located just outside Chamonix in France, is one of the most popular starting points for the TMB. The traditional route begins here before climbing towards Col de Voza and continuing through the Bionnassay area towards Les Contamines.
The first stage is particularly notable for its initial ascent from Les Houches. While some hikers choose to take the Bellevue cable car to bypass much of this climb, following the original route on foot offers the opportunity to experience the entire stage from its official starting point.
Col de Voza is also an important landmark along this section, offering access to the Tramway du Mont-Blanc, a historic mountain railway that travels through the surrounding alpine landscape
Getting There
Les Houches is located in the Chamonix Valley in Haute-Savoie, southeastern France. The nearest major transport hub is Saint-Gervais-les-Bains–Le Fayet, which is connected to other parts of France by regional and long-distance rail services.
From Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, visitors can take the Mont-Blanc Express or connecting regional train services towards Les Houches, depending on the operating schedule. Les Houches railway station is a short walk from the official Tour du Mont Blanc starting point in the village. Alternatively, local buses connect Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and the Chamonix Valley, including Les Houches.
For those arriving by car, Les Houches is accessible via the A40 motorway, followed by the N205 towards Chamonix. Parking is available in designated areas around the village, although hikers planning to complete the full circuit should check long-term parking arrangements in advance.
For hikers wishing to shorten the first stage, the Bellevue cable car provides an alternative way to reach the higher section of the route. It departs from Les Houches and offers access towards the Col de Voza area, bypassing much of the initial uphill climb.
Route Overview
Distance: 19.25 km out & back (Les Houches Station → Les Contamines)
Total elevation gain: 1,076 m
Duration: 4 hr 55 min (with breaks 6 hr 33 min)
Difficulty: Hard
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: CA$84.32
Cable Car: Le Valléen Depart Station → Le Valléen Arrival Station — €2.5
Train: Saint-Gervais-les-Bains Station → Les Houches Station — €2.3
Food: €19.25
