Camino Francés - Day 25: El Ganso to Molinaseca
I had planned to leave early, but my hiking pole was locked away in storage, and the area didn’t open until 7 a.m. Once I finally set off, the day unfolded into one of the most memorable stages of my Camino. After several days of relatively flat terrain, the path began to climb steadily toward the mountains, and I could feel my energy returning. I practically skipped uphill to Foncebadón, where I paused for a short rest before continuing toward the highlight of the day — Cruz de Ferro.
Standing atop one of the highest points on the Camino Francés, the iron cross at Cruz de Ferro marks one of the pilgrimage’s most meaningful landmarks. Tradition says you bring a stone from home and leave it here, symbolizing the burdens or worries you wish to release. I stood quietly, taking in the mound of stones, photos, and tokens left by pilgrims over the centuries — a collective monument of hope and surrender.
From Cruz de Ferro, the trail began its long, rocky descent toward Molinaseca. I quickly realized that walking downhill could be even more challenging than climbing; steep, uneven stretches demanded careful footing and endless patience. By the time I reached the valley floor, my legs were spent, and I found myself silently swearing never to repeat that section again.
When I arrived in Molinaseca in the late afternoon, I hadn’t booked accommodation and soon discovered that every albergue in town was full. The sun was still hot, and exhaustion crept in as I considered walking another 8 km to the next village. Just then, an albergue owner noticed my situation and kindly started phoning around to help. I wasn’t the only one — three other pilgrims from Taiwan and Japan were also searching for a bed.
After some anxious waiting, good news finally came: a small hotel had two available rooms for €46 each. We took them immediately. When we arrived, the hotel owner graciously opened the doors just for us, even though the hotel was closed for the day. Overwhelmed with gratitude, I hugged her and told her she was my Camino angel. That night, as I settled into my room, I felt an immense sense of relief — and deep thankfulness for the simple gift of a bed after such a long and emotional day.
History & Background
This stage of the Camino Francés marks a dramatic shift from the plains of León into the mountainous Montes de León. Pilgrims climb toward Foncebadón, a once-abandoned village that has come back to life thanks to the Camino. Just beyond it stands Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), one of the most spiritual and symbolic landmarks along the route. Its origins date back to the 11th century, when pilgrims would leave stones as acts of devotion or penance. The practice continues today, representing the physical and emotional weight each traveller leaves behind.
After Cruz de Ferro, the trail descends sharply through Manjarín, a small hamlet famous for its rustic refuge run by modern Templars, and continues toward the lush valley surrounding Molinaseca. The town itself is known for its medieval bridge over the River Meruelo, charming stone houses, and peaceful riverside cafés — a welcome contrast to the demanding terrain leading into it.
Getting There
El Ganso is typically reached on foot from Astorga or Rabanal del Camino as part of the Camino Francés. The route to Molinaseca continues through Foncebadón and Cruz de Ferro, following well-marked mountain trails that gradually descend into the Bierzo valley. For those travelling outside of the pilgrimage, the nearest major transport hub is Ponferrada, located about 6 km beyond Molinaseca. From there, regular bus and train connections link to León, Astorga, and Madrid. Taxis are also available for transfers between nearby villages if needed, especially useful during busy pilgrimage seasons when accommodation fills quickly.
Route Overview
Distance: 32.73 km (Albergue Indian Way → Casa Rural La Torre de Babel)
Total elevation gain: 584 m
Duration: 7 hr 2 min (with breaks 8 hr 8 min)
Difficulty: Challenging
For the full day-by-day route breakdown, including distances and duration, see my complete Camino Francés route guide.
Cost Breakdown
Accommodation: Casa Rural La Torre de Babel (Referred) — €23
Food: €26.1
