Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle - Okayama, Japan
I had heard about Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle being shrouded in clouds during the colder months, creating the illusion of a floating fortress in a sea of mist. I wanted to try my luck and see if I could catch this phenomenal sight for myself.
After arriving in Takahashi from Shikoku, I stopped by the information centre next to the train station, which is conveniently connected to a Starbucks and the city library. I inquired about visiting the observation deck located on the opposite side of the mountain—about a 15-minute drive away—that offers the best view of the castle in the clouds. The staff informed me that I could sign up for their early morning shuttle to the deck. I immediately did, grateful for the chance since I had originally planned to walk the distance.
With that sorted, I began exploring the quiet streets of the historic castle town. The preserved district near the castle is filled with charming samurai residences, folk museums, and Raikyuji Temple, known for its stunning garden. You can purchase a combination ticket that includes entry to these attractions, which I highly recommend for anyone wanting to experience more of Takahashi’s history.
There’s a shuttle bus that takes visitors up to the upper castle parking lot, but from there, it’s still a 20-minute hike to the castle itself. I decided to start from the base of the mountain instead. At the trailhead, there are walking sticks provided for free use—I borrowed one and began my ascent. The trail was moderate, with a few steeper sections but nothing overly demanding. Just before reaching the upper parking area, a short set of stairs marked the transition to the next stage of the climb.
The final approach to the castle consists mainly of wide stone steps, with railings in some sections for support. As I came closer, the massive stone walls and the castle came into view—it was magnificent. Standing there, it was easy to imagine the strength and importance this mountaintop fortress once held.
Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle is named to distinguish it from Matsuyama Castle in Shikoku. It’s one of Japan’s oldest surviving castles and the only remaining original mountaintop castle among the twelve that have endured since the feudal era. At 430 metres above sea level, it’s also one of Japan’s Three Great Mountain Castles, alongside Iwamura Castle in Gifu and Takatori Castle in Nara. Its steep, elevated location made it nearly impossible to attack, granting it a strong defensive advantage.
Beyond the panoramic views and the historical architecture, one delightful surprise awaited me—a cat named Sanjuro, known as the “Cat Lord” of Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle. Sanjuro even has a couple of beds inside the castle grounds. When I purchased my ticket, I was lucky enough to meet the famous feline himself. Visitors can take photos but aren’t allowed to pet him. Naturally, I took a few pictures, including a couple of selfies with the castle’s furry guardian.
After exploring the castle grounds, I made my descent back down the mountain. It became clear that most visitors take the shuttle bus, as I only passed one other person on the trail. Once back in town, I visited the folk museum, samurai residences, and Raikyuji Temple, rounding off a full and satisfying day.
History & Background
Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城), located in Takahashi, Okayama Prefecture, dates back to 1240. Built during the Kamakura period, it was later expanded under various feudal lords, including the Mimura and Mizunoya clans. The castle sits atop Mount Gagyu at an elevation of 430 metres and remains Japan’s only surviving original mountaintop castle. Much of its defensive success came from its natural terrain and the extensive stone walls that seamlessly blend into the mountain’s contours. Though small in size compared to other famous castles, its setting and preservation make it a remarkable example of Edo-period military architecture.
Japan’s Three Great Mountain Castles: Read about the other two castle ruins here — Takatori Castle Ruins and Iwamura Castle Ruins.
Getting There
From Okayama Station, take the JR Hakubi Line to Bitchu-Takahashi Station (approximately 1 hour). From there, you can either take the shuttle bus to the upper castle parking lot or begin your hike from the base. The observation deck—where the castle appears to float in the clouds—is located about 15 minutes away by car on the opposite ridge. Visitors can join the early morning shuttle organized by the local tourism office beside the station for the best chance of witnessing the “castle in the sky” phenomenon.
Route Overview
Distance: 4.26 km out & back (Bitchu-Takahashi Station)
Total elevation gain: 343 m
Duration: 1 hr 15 min (with breaks 1 hr 30 min)
Difficulty: Intermediate
Peak: Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle 備中松山城 430 m
Cost Breakdown
Ticket: Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle 3-in-1 — ¥1,000
Food: ¥263
