Wakakusa Yamayaki - Nara, Japan
This trip to Nara was an unexpected surprise. After extending my stay in Japan, I decided to revisit the city — and by chance, it was the day of the Wakakusa Yamayaki Festival. I felt a thrill of excitement at the thought of witnessing a centuries-old tradition unfold before me.
Originally, I had planned to hike Mount Wakakusa, but the visitor centre staff told me about the festival, which usually takes place on the fourth Saturday of January, weather permitting. I loved the idea of combining a walk with a cultural experience. The ceremony involves Todaiji Temple, Kofukuji Temple, and Kasuga Shrine, and has been celebrated for centuries. While its origin is unclear, I found it fascinating to imagine how this ritual might have shaped the city over hundreds of years.
The festival starts around noon, but the mountain burning happens after sunset. I spent the afternoon wandering the temple grounds, feeling a calm anticipation as the crowd grew. The scents of street foods drifted through the air, mingling with the crisp winter chill. I couldn’t help but smile at the chatter of fellow visitors, their excitement mirroring my own.
Finding a spot near the base of Mount Wakakusa, I watched the preparations, feeling a mix of awe and excitement. Hundreds of firefighters moved with precision, carrying out their roles to ensure the event’s safety. As the sun set, a torch procession led by priests slowly ascended the hillside. I felt a quiet reverence, imagining the countless people who had followed this same ritual over the centuries.
The flames began with the ceremonial burning of wishes and offerings, followed by fireworks, and then the hillside itself was set ablaze. I was struck by the sheer intensity — a rolling wave of orange climbing the mountain, smoke curling into the night sky. The crackle of the fire, the fireworks, and the awe-struck faces around me made the moment feel almost magical.
As the fire burned down, people slowly left through the narrow exits. I chose to walk back to JR Nara Station, soaking in the lively streets along the way. I felt like I had glimpsed a hidden side of Nara — both ancient and alive with energy.
Later, a local friend told me most residents watch from home or nearby restaurants. I felt lucky to have experienced it firsthand. Standing there, watching the mountain glow, I realized it wasn’t just a festival — it was a bridge connecting me to centuries of history, culture, and the shared wonder of the people around me.
Background
The Wakakusa Yamayaki Festival (若草山焼き) is an annual event where the grass on Mount Wakakusa is set ablaze in a dramatic fire ritual. Though its exact origins are unclear, the festival has been celebrated for centuries — some say it began to resolve temple disputes, others to drive away wild animals. Today, it’s a unique blend of history, religion, and spectacle, involving nearby Todaiji Temple, Kofukuji Temple, and Kasuga Shrine. Watching the flames climb the hillside is both a cultural and visual highlight of winter in Nara.
Getting There
There are a few ways to reach Mount Wakakusa — by bus, taxi, or on foot. The most budget-friendly options are walking or taking the bus. From JR Nara Station, the bus takes about 17 minutes to Kasuga Shrine, followed by a short walk to the base of the mountain. On the day of the festival, extra buses run to help manage the crowds, but they often fill up quickly.
I chose to walk the approximately 2.7 km from JR Nara Station to Mount Wakakusa. The route passes along bustling shopping streets and historic temples, making the walk a pleasant and scenic way to explore the city before the festival begins.
Route Overview
Distance: 7.36 km out & back (JR Nara Station)
Total elevation gain: 98 m
Duration: 1 hr 46 min (with breaks 4 hr 3 min)
Difficulty: Easy
Cost Breakdown
Train: Osaka Station → Nara Station — ¥820
Food: ¥1,843
