Kumano Kodo Nakahechi – Day 6: Kii-Katsuura to Shingu
Today marked the final day of my Kumano Kodo Nakahechi pilgrimage. Instead of hiking, I took a bus from Kii-Katsuura to Shingu to visit Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社), the last of the three Grand Shrines of Kumano and the final stop on my journey to collect the Nakahechi route stamp.
The day began early at Kii-Katsuura port, where I witnessed the famous tuna auction. It was fascinating to see freshly caught tuna being hauled off by buyers immediately after bidding. The energy was high, offering a vivid glimpse into the local fishing culture. Afterwards, I wandered through the nearby morning market and enjoyed a fresh seafood breakfast—simple, fresh, and flavourful.
From there, I took a 35-minute bus ride to Hayatama Taisha. I found the pilgrimage stamps at the shrine shop, officially completing the journey. To commemorate the end, I purchased an omamori for good health—something that felt both symbolic and personally meaningful after the physical and emotional experience of the past several days.
The six-day trek along the Nakahechi route has been incredibly rewarding. From mountain paths and sacred shrines to peaceful villages and warm encounters with fellow pilgrims, every step offered something unique. Though this chapter is now complete, I’m already thinking ahead to the other Kumano Kodo trails—I hope to return and continue exploring more of this remarkable pilgrimage network.
History & Background
Hayatama Taisha is one of the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, alongside Hongu Taisha and Nachi Taisha, forming the spiritual heart of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage network. Historically, the Nakahechi Route led pilgrims from the inland mountains toward these sacred sites, with Hayatama Taisha often serving as the final destination for those completing the journey.
The shrine, located in Shingu near the mouth of the Kumano River, has been a center of worship for over a thousand years. Pilgrims historically offered prayers for safety, health, and spiritual purification, and many received blessings or carried amulets before returning home. Today, Hayatama Taisha remains an active place of worship and a vital cultural site, preserving centuries of ritual and tradition.
Getting There
Hayatama Taisha is easily accessible by bus from Kii-Katsuura Station, with the journey taking about 35 minutes. Buses run several times a day, though schedules can vary by season, so checking departure times in advance is recommended. Alternatively, you can reach the shrine by train to Shingu Station, but it requires a short walk from the station to the shrine itself.
Cost Breakdown
Bus: Kii-Katsuura Station → Hayatama Taisha bus stop — ¥580 (cash)
Food: ¥1,800
Omamori: ¥1,000
