Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Day 5: Koguchi - Nachi Taisha

pilgrimageasia

Dec 8

Written By Anne

Today was considered the toughest day on the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route. I was warned about the steep climb and slippery moss covered trail if it rained. After breakfast and picking up my packed lunch, my host dropped me off at the trailhead. Feeling a light drizzle, I put on my backpack rain cover and began the hike.

The first 5 km was a long, uphill climb over rocky steps—my legs felt it. I was thrilled to reach the highest point at 847m. The descent wasn’t much easier, with muddy paths and small streams crossing the trail. I carefully making my way down, trying not to slip or soak my shoes. At the midpoint rest house, I was glad I can enjoy my lunch indoors escaping the chilling wind.

There was one more short climb before gradual descent toward Nachi Taisha. This section was busier, with a few large guided groups going the other way. I even spotted a deer resting near the trail, though it ran off when it saw me. The final stretch was mostly stone steps, which I found surprisingly hard on the feet.

At Nachi Taisha, I had trouble finding the stamp and had to ask for help—it wasn’t where I expected. I was a bit disappointed I couldn’t get the iconic photo of the pagoda and waterfall, since the pagoda was under renovation. Still, the view was stunning. I ended the day with a delicious bowl of beef curry—it really hit the spot after a long hike. I was surprised it only took me just over six hours, including breaks!