Kumano Kodo Nakahechi – Day 4: Ukegawa to Koguchi
I knew today’s trail wouldn’t be too difficult based on the route profile. After a hearty breakfast at the ryokan, I picked up my packed lunch and took a short bus ride from Kawayu Onsen to the Kogumotori-goe trailhead in Ukegawa.
The trail was well maintained and much quieter than the previous Nakahechi sections. The first 2.5 km was a gentle climb, followed by a steeper 2 km ascent. At the highest point, the Hyakken-gura lookout, I was treated to stunning mountain range views and took a short break to enjoy the scenery. There was a damaged section caused by a rockslide, but it was manageable. I stopped again to eat my lunch before starting the descent, which was straightforward. I passed a few hikers going the opposite way, and the final stretch was mostly road walking toward the Ogumotori-goe trailhead.
Tonight’s accommodation was a 15-minute drive deeper into the mountains from the trailhead. I was instructed to call the host from a nearby convenience store. After restocking on snacks and drinks, I called for pickup. To my surprise, I was the only guest—so I had the whole place to myself! Dinner was deer sukiyaki, a first for me, and it was delicious. I spent the rest of the evening relaxing under a kotatsu and reading.
History & Background
The Kogumotori-goe (小雲取越) to Koguchi section of the Kumano Kodo is part of the historic Nakahechi Imperial Route, traditionally used by pilgrims—including members of the Imperial family—traveling between the sacred sites of Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha, and Nachi Taisha since the 10th century.
This intermediate section, known as the Kogumotori-goe, or “lesser of the small bird-catching passage,” is less challenging than the other difficult passages on the Nakahechi Route. The area also holds significance for Shugendo, the practice of mountain worship and ascetic training, which shaped the trail’s development.
Historically, pilgrims would stop at small shrines or teahouse ruins to rest, perform purification rituals, and seek blessings for safe passage. Today, hikers follow much of the same path, enjoying gentle climbs, forested ridges, and panoramic views from points like the Hyakken-gura lookout, connecting with centuries of spiritual and cultural history.
Getting There
The Kogumotori-goe trailhead in Ukegawa is accessible by local bus from Kawayu Onsen, Yunomine Onsen, or Hongu. The bus ride takes only 5–6 minutes from Kawayu or Hongu, or about 17 minutes from Yunomine Onsen, making Kawayu or Hongu the more convenient starting point for hikers continuing along the Nakahechi Route.
Bus schedules can vary seasonally, so it’s a good idea to check departure times in advance. Many accommodations in Yunomine or Kawayu can also provide guidance on which bus to take or offer shuttle.
Route Overview
Distance: 14.29 km (Ukegawa bus stop → Kogumotori-goe trailhead)
Total elevation gain: 682 m
Duration: 3 hr 27 min (with breaks 3 hr 58 min)
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost Breakdown
Bus: Kawayu Onsen bus stop → Ukegawa bus stop — ¥210 (cash)
Accommodation: @Koguchi (booked via Kumano Travel) — C$103.30
Food: ¥1,038
