Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Day 3: Yunomine - Kawayu
Today was a rest day to recover and explore Hongu before continuing the Nakahechi trail. I left my hostel around 9 AM and walked around Yunomine Onsen—a small town centered around its famous hot springs. I considered soaking my feet in the foot bath but decided to skip it before the hike.
There are three pilgrimage routes in the Hongu area. Since I completed one yesterday, I planned to finish the other two: Dainichi-goe and Akagi-goe. The Dainichi-goe trail from Yunomine to Hongu took just over an hour, mostly downhill. Since it was short, I had time before the bus, I explored Hongu. I stopped by a souvenir shop near the shrine, where the owner—also a dual pilgrim—shared stories and gave me a wooden block with a three-legged crow and Camino shell for good luck. Wishing me a “Buen Camino” I headed towards the bus stop.
Next, I took a bus to Hosshinmon-oji and hiked the Akagi-goe trail. It was less maintained and rocky in parts, but still enjoyable. I didn’t see anyone else on either trail. I made it back to Yunomine just in time for the bus to Kawayu Onsen.
After checking into my accommodation, the ryokan staff explained I could use the in-house private onsen or visit the nearby river onsen (available only in winter). I took my time soaking and enjoyed a delicious dinner. Tomorrow, I’ll continue on the Nakahechi trail.
Route Detail
Dainichi-goe
Distance: 3.61km from Yunomine Onsen to Hongu Taisha bus stop
Total elevation gain: 201m
Time: 1h 11m (total time with breaks 1h 19m)
Difficulty: Easy
Akagi-goe
Distance: 9km from Hosshinmon-Oji bus stop to Yunomine Onsen
Total elevation gain: 355m
Time: 2h 15m (total time with breaks 2h 21m)
Difficulty: Moderate
Transportation
Bus Hongu Taisha bus stop to Hosshinmon-oji bus stop ¥470 (cash)
Bus Yunomino Onsen bus stop to Kawayu Onsen bus stop ¥250 (cash)
Accommodation & Food
Omuraya (booked direct) ¥13750 (paid card at accommodation)
Food ¥1380
