Kumano Kodo Nakahechi – Day 3: Yunomine to Kawayu
Today was a rest day to recover and explore Hongu before continuing the Nakahechi trail. I left my hostel around 9 AM and walked around Yunomine Onsen — a small town centred around its famous hot springs. I considered soaking my feet in the foot bath but decided to skip it before the hike.
There are three pilgrimage routes in the Hongu area. Since I completed one yesterday, I planned to finish the other two: Dainichi-goe and Akagi-goe.
Dainichi-goe is a short trail connecting Yunomine Onsen and Hongu Taisha. Hikers can travel either direction: the route from Hongu to Yunomine is steeper and requires more uphill effort, while the path from Yunomine to Hongu has less climbing but a lot of downhill, which can be tough on the knees. Pilgrims traditionally used it to visit the shrine for prayers, and today it remains a scenic and historically significant path. I took the Yunomine → Hongu direction. It took just over an hour, and since it was short, I had time to explore Hongu before the bus. I stopped by a souvenir shop near the shrine, where the owner — also a dual pilgrim — shared stories and gave me a wooden block featuring a three-legged crow and Camino shell for good luck. Wishing me a “Buen Camino”, I headed toward the bus stop.
Next, I took a bus to Hosshinmon-oji and hiked the Akagi-goe trail. This path is roughly similar in difficulty in either direction, passing through rugged, rocky terrain and small temples. Pilgrims have walked it for centuries for reflection and penance, and even today it offers a quiet, solitary experience. I didn’t see anyone else on the trail, which made the hike feel peaceful and intimate. I returned to Yunomine just in time for the bus to Kawayu Onsen.
After checking into my accommodation, the ryokan staff explained I could use the in-house private onsen or visit the nearby river onsen (available only in winter). I took my time soaking and enjoyed a delicious dinner. Tomorrow, I’ll continue on the Nakahechi trail.
Getting There
If you’re staying in Hongu, you can start by taking a bus to Hosshinmon-Oji and begin your hike along the Akagi-goe route. Once you arrive in Yunomine Onsen, walk to the trailhead for Dainichi-goe and follow it back to Hongu.
If you’re starting from Yunomine Onsen, you can do the hike in either direction. One option is to begin with Akagi-goe toward Hosshinmon-Oji, then take a bus to Hongu and return via Dainichi-goe. Alternatively, you can start with Dainichi-goe from Yunomine Onsen toward Hongu, then take a bus to Hosshinmon-Oji and hike back to Yunomine along Akagi-goe.
Of course, you can also choose to walk the section between Hongu and Hosshinmon-Oji if you prefer.
Route Overview
Dainichi-goe 大日越
Distance: 3.61 km (Yunomine Onsen → Hongu Taisha bus stop)
Total elevation gain: 201 m
Duration: 1 hr 11 min (with breaks 1 hr 19 min)
Difficulty: Easy
Akagi-goe 赤城越
Distance: 9 km (Hosshinmon-Oji bus stop → Yunomine Onsen)
Total elevation gain: 355 m
Duration: 2 hr 15 min (with breaks 2 hr 21 min)
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cost Breakdown
Bus: Hongu Taisha bus stop → Hosshinmon-Oji bus stop — ¥470 (cash)
Bus: Yunomine Onsen bus stop → Kawayu Onsen bus stop — ¥250 (cash)
Accommodation: Omuraya (booked direct) — ¥13,750 (paid at accommodation)
Food: ¥1,380
