Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Day 2: Chikatsuyu - Hongu Taisha

pilgrimageasia

Dec 5

Written By Anne

Today was the longest day of my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. I caught the first bus from Kii-Tanabe Station to Nonaka Ipposugi and hiked 1.7 km up a winding mountain road to rejoin the trail. The route was said to have more downhill than uphill, with the steepest part being the detour section. My main goal was to reach Hongu early enough to get my Dual Pilgrim Certificate and catch the last bus to Yunomine Onsen.

The trail started off beautifully, with fall-coloured trees lining the path—I took more photos than I care to admit. After some road walking, I reached the detour, which began with a steep climb. I took it one step at a time—it was tough on the legs. After that, I arrived at Mikoshi-toge Pass and took a short break before descending. There were signs warning of the steep descent, and I was grateful for my hiking pole.

At Fushiogami-Oji, I stopped for coffee at a small tea house run by local women. Feeling energized, I practically skipped the last stretch to Hongu Taisha, where I got my final stamp required for the Dual Pilgrim Certificate.

I submitted my completed credential and Camino de Santiago certificate at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Centre and received my washi-paper certificate. I then picked up my golden shell (a special gift for the 20th anniversary of World Heritage Recognition) and even got to drum the taiko near the shrine—it put a huge smile on my face.

Soon after, I caught the bus to Yunomine Onsen. My hostel had three private baths, and soaking in one was the perfect way to relax after a long day.