Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Day 1: Takijiri-oji - Chikatsuyu-oji

pilgrimageasia

Dec 4

Written By Anne

I caught the first bus from Kii-Tanabe Station to Takajiri-Oji. It was still early, so the information centre was closed. Although many hikers got off at the same stop, I seemed to be the only one heading toward the trailhead to start the Nakahechi Route.

I pulled out my brand-new credential and stamped it for the first time, did a quick prayer at the shrine, and began the hike from behind it. The trail started with a steep climb to around 400 metres through tree roots. Along the way, I passed a large rock with a small hole that women traditionally squeeze through praying for an uncomplicated and smooth delivery—I skipped it, as I wasn’t confident I could squeeze through it, I took a few photos, and went around.

After that initial climb, the trail became easier until a short, steep ascent just before Takahara. At the rest house there, I saw many hikers just starting their day. I took a quick break and used the facilities before moving on.

The next stretch to Chikatsuyu was more mountainous. A sign warned it would take about four hours with no residents along the way. It began with another steep climb to about 600 metres before levelling into rolling terrain. About 1.4 km before Chikatsuyu, I detoured 200 meters to a roadside rest stop, used the restroom, and had a snack.

I arrived in Chikatsuyu around 12:30 PM. Since it was too early to check in, I explored the town—visited the (closed) Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Museum of Art, a nearby park, and then had lunch at a restaurant. While parts of the hike were a bit annoying, it wasn’t as hard as others had described. I saw only a handful of people and really enjoyed the quiet nature.